Detail Info for: 2000 Audi S4 2000 Audi B5 S4 Stage 2 - Extensive Mods, Starts and runs, needs work

Transaction Info
Sold On:
12/20/2018
Price:
$ 2500.00
Condition:
Mileage:
185000
Location:
Hendersonville, Tennessee, 37075
Seller Type:
Private Seller
Vehicle Specification
Year Make Model:
2000 Audi S4
Submodel Body Type:
Engine:
2.7T 6 Cylinder Twin Turbo
Transmission:
Manual
VIN:
WAUDD68DXYA031971
Vehicle Title:
Salvage
Drive Train:
Fuel Type:
Gasoline
Standard Equipment:
Optional Equipment:
Vehicle Detail
This has been my daily driver for nearly 9 years. I bought it as a CoPart salvage auction car hit in the front left. I replaced the intercooler, hood, front bumper, and headlights with aftermarket parts (except hood is OEM), then drove it for 5 problem-free years. I have a 3-ring binder with receipts for every single item that's on the car. I'm not just claiming it's on there like some people do; I have all the receipts and most of the original boxes a lot of these parts came in. The clutch started slipping 4 years ago, so I let a shop I didn't know down in Florida where I lived at the time replace the clutch with a Fidanza and they re-used torque to yield bolts on a much thinner flywheel. The flywheel broke loose 300 miles later, taking the engine and transmission with it. 6 months later after a fruitless battle with that shop, I pulled the engine myself and put a 75k mileage used engine from Phil at Audi S4 parts in the vehicle in the Spring of 2015. Engine ran great, but upon driving it, I realized the input shaft on the transmission was bent from the previous engine lockup incident, so we got a rebuilt 01E 6 speed manual transmission from another salvage vehicle and then took the car Stage 3 on a Daz tune (VagCom cable comes with it). It drove perfectly from 2015-early 2018, then the turbos started blowing oil, so we pulled them out and went back Stage 2. Unfortunately in the turbo pull, I decided to replace the throwout bearing while I had it apart, and the throwout bearing is from an A4 and it's too short, which allows the pedal to go further to the floor than it should, and it keeps blowing master cylinders (I've gone through 3, the original OEM, and 2 O'Reilly replacements). To fix that the engine has to come back out of the car and I have just simply lost interest. Thousands were spent on this car, with receipts, including: Full suspension - every ball join, control arm, every rubber piece replaced by the shop in Florida. $1,800 in suspension work, with receipts in 2014. Rebuilt 01E transmission, worth $1,200 with cryo 2nd gear synchros, and a new mid-axle carrier bearing in 2015. Shifted smooth and strong before the current master cylinder issue. 90k on Engine from Audis4Parts.com, runs good, no knocks or noises, fluid leaks, or burning oil that I can tell. $950 Full stage 2 mods, 80k on turbos, no whine, no shaft play, no burning oil. 3SX ceramic coated bipipes with meth bungs, silicone lobster claws, billet blowoff valves, billet turbo inlet pipes, upgraded high flow side mount intercoolers, T-clamps all around, gutted down-pipes, APR air filter, Stage 2 tune from Phil at AudiS4Parts.com. $1,000 Walbro 255 LPH Fuel pump installed and running well. $350 $1,000 in Raxle front Axles. They don't make these anymore. In perfect shape, no tears in boots or bad beaings, etc. PODI over-steering-wheel gauge housing with Oil Press / fuel flow combo gauge. Manual oil pressure tap for gauge off oil press sending unit. Air/Fuel sensor and computer. $500. All power options work, power seats, heated seats, sunroof, power mirrors, power door locks, keyless entry, etc. Comes with a ton of extra parts from the other car part out I got the 6-speed from, way too much to mention but probably easily worth another $500+ (alternators, power steering pump, rear view mirrors, CD changer, just a lot of stuff in about 3 large boxes currently loaded in the back). As you can see, the car has an aftermarket bumper that needs to be replaced (pictures are from last Spring when it drove). To fix this, the engine will have to come out, throwout bearing replaced, back in with a replacement master cylinder, and you should be good to go. Or part it out and make money, whichever sounds better to you. Priced to move. Your bid is not to come look at it, it's to come pick it up and haul it off. Again, it can't be driven and the car needs to be removed with a flat-bed trailer from the premises within 3 days of auction end. Please come look at this car before the auction ends. You bid on it, you buy it. Please ask all questions EARLY in the auction. I'm sometimes not here to answer questions last minute. Clear TN Salvage Title, currently insured and passing emissions in TN.