1999 Mazda MX-5 Miata

Convertible

1.8L

Manual

JM1NB3539X0135556

Clear

Gasoline

1999 Mazda MX-5 Miata – 10th Anniversary Edition The time has come to sell my fair-weather, summer driver. Originally sold and owned in Fort Myers, Florida, I purchased it early 2009. I am the third owner, having acquired the car with 79,000 miles on it. During my ownership, the car has been driven in good weather only, as fair-weather transportation for my daily commute between Warsaw, Indiana and Fort Wayne, Indiana. The car has been garaged six out of the eight years I have owned it. Mechanically, the car is in excellent condition and has been meticulously maintained. A few purpose-driven, mature enhancements have been made to the car. As such, the car runs great, with no weird quirks, sounds, or stupid stuff. No oil use ever. The car is responsive, handles well and can be driven anywhere. Never abused, the car is generally driven aggressively and averages 27-28mpg. (My daily commute includes 80 highway miles and 10 city miles.) Everything works: a/c, cruise, all lights, stereo, cd, cassette, power antenna, power mirrors. – EVERYTHING. I will say that the CD player has gotten a little finicky when playing CDs that I have burnt. - It could probably stand being pulled and sent in for service. Cosmetically, the exterior shows wear commensurate with age. The car has never been driven in snow or salt. Consequently, there is absolutely no rust anywhere on the car. Other than minor scratches and dings, the front bumper, hood, and front fenders show the most wear; mostly, due to sun fade and chips. – 95% of the wear showing in these areas was apparent when I acquired the car. Ironically, I work as a buyer in the autobody supply industry. – I always planned to respray the front panels but never made the time to do it. The interior is in great shape with no rips, tears, or fading. The interior areas showing wear are: leather seat bolsters (creasing), steering wheel, shift knob, and vinyl shift boot. Overall, the car looks nice and gets looks wherever I go. The convertible top boot has some minor discoloration in a few spots. – I never noticed it until I pulled it out for listing photos. – That is the first and only time I have ever had the convertible top boot on. Accordingly, the boot is in great shape, with minimal to no wear. I originally purchased the vehicle with plans to do a V-8 conversion. Once I flew to Florida and picked up the car, I quickly determined that it was too nice to cut on. – I decided to drive it a few years before performing the swap. As you can see, the swap never occurred. – Necessarily, life and priorities have altered my plans, as they should have. Notwithstanding, I’m sad to see it go. It’s been a great car and has been a lot of fun to own. Most recently, the engine and transmission were removed to address a minor front lip oil-pan seeping issue. Other than this recent development, the engine has always been tight, with no drips, leaks, or seeping whatsoever. While the engine was out, I decided to replace all gaskets and seals, as matter of preventative maintenance, due to mileage. While the head was removed, I observed no visible wear to the cylinders. – No discernable steps or scoring whatsoever. The factory hone pattern was still visible, even at the top of the travel. Power, lack of oil consumption, and photographed compression figures further substantiate the absence of wear. Note that the factory service manual specs compression at 146psi to 209psi, with a maximum variation of 28psi. Compression was checked with all cylinders dry and engine at operating temperature – Cylinder #1: 205psi, Cylinder #2: 210psi, Cylinder #3: 210psi, Cylinder #4: 210psi. While the head was removed, all intake and exhaust ports were gasket matched. Ports were smoothed and blended 1.5” beyond the gasket mating surfaces. Valves stems and guides measure minimal to no wear. All valves were lapped and reinstalled with new seals. The deck surface was lightly planed, to guarantee flatness. The upper and lower intake manifold has been ported and smoothed. Intake upper and lower plenum gasket surfaces were planed, as was the head mating surface. All ports gasket matched. Also added was a throttle body hot-water bypass, to cut down in intake charge temperature. - The conversion utilizes a factory-style beaded hard line, to ensure positive hose sealing. Also recently added was the pictured exhaust header. The head flange and upper tubes are factory pieces, as found on mid-1990s 1.8L MX-5. The collector and lower flange were fabricated to maintain correct angle and design, for use with a stock intermediate pipe. The EGR tube was fabricated from stainless tubing. Both pieces are wrapped with woven fiberglass insulation. In addition to looking great, the header flows better and is significantly lighter than the stock cast iron manifold. Both flanges are 3/8” thick and have been planed for flatness. The catalytic converter was recently replaced, due to a lack of OBD2 compatibility with the metallic spun converter I was previously running. Though, spun converters are free flowing, they do not maintain the long-term catalytic efficiency required by OBD2. I had originally replaced the factory converter as a consequence of a coil-pack failure and subsequent converter burn-out. The spun unit worked fine but started throwing a P0420 code, once the catalytic efficiency degraded from use. Last year, I replaced the factory muffler, due to a seam failure. I utilized the factory tip and installed a Thrush version of a Flowmaster. Due to sound level, I installed a factory-style resonator. The result, as you can hear in the video, is a nice, low tone that sounds more aggressive than the factory system but is not grating or immature (read ricey) sounding. Here’s a link to a virtual test drive, so that you can see the car on the road, from the driver’s seat. Below is a listing of the work I have done to the car, with comments where appropriate: · New clutch master cylinder - 2017 · New clutch slave cylinder - 2017 · New clutch pilot bearing - 2017 · New clutch throw-out bearing - 2017 · 11.7lb Lightweight, Forged, chrome-moly flywheel - 2011 · Clutch friction measures 75% life remaining – 2017 · New input / output transmission seals – 2011 · Fresh trans oil change – Filled with Ford XT-M5 synthetic (best lubricant available for Aisin AZ6 transmission) – 2017 · New lower shift boot (rubber – mounts to transmission shift tower) – 2017 · New upper shift boot (rubber – mounts to body, under vinyl shift boot) – 2014 · New shifter bushings (nylon – attach to shift lever) - 2014 · New hoses throughout - 2017 · New radiator – 2009 · New radiator plug / seal - 2017 · New radiator cap - 2017 · New thermostat - 2017 · Fresh oil / filter change – Changed religiously, every 3,000 miles. · New air filter – 2017 · New PCV valve - 2017 · New belts - 2017 · Fresh lube change in Torsen rear axle - 2017 · New timing belt, tensioner pulley, tensioner spring, and idler pulley - 2017 · New cam seals - 2017 · New crank seals (front, rear) - 2017 · New valve seals - 2017 · New water pump - 2017 · New Fel-pro gaskets throughout – All engine gaskets replaced, no exceptions. – 2017 · New Exhaust Header – 2017 · New stainless EGR tube - 2017 · New resonator and turbo muffler – 2016 · New NGK fuel pump – 2015 · New fuel filter – 2017 · New injector screens and seals - 2017 · New ignition coils – 2010 · New NGK oxygen sensors - 2010 · New NGK Iridium spark plugs – 2017 · New NGK spark plug wires – 2017 · New Mitsubishi Brand (OEM) knock sensor - 2017 · Ceramic headlamp connectors – 2016 · New set (all four) P205/50-15 Nitto Neo-Gen radials – 2016 (5k miles on set) · Ceramic brake pads and slotted rotors – 2015 (40%-50% front pad life – 60% rear pad life) · New right front wheel bearing - 2016 · Rear calipers rebuilt - 2016 · New engine mounts (rubber stock-type) – 2015 · Poly suspension bushings throughout, including all front / rear control arms, and sway bars – 2012 - All control arms have been fitted with weld-nuts and threaded grease fittings. All bushings are drilled and slotted for distribution of grease at pivot points. Consequently, bushings do not bind or squeak. · Poly differential mounts – 2012 · New Timken rear wheel bearings and seals – 2012 · New differential output shaft seals – 2012 · New Deeza brand lower ball joints – 2012 · New Deeza brand outer tie rod ends – 2012 · Starter reduction drive (planetary / sun gears) cleaned and greased – 2017 · New alternator - 2012 · New Optima battery – 2012 · New convertible top – 2009 (shows minor wear / creasing – 40%-50% life left, if garaged) · New inner and outer belt mouldings (felt wipers on side doors) – 2009 · New Delrin side window guide rollers – 2017 – All tracks and regulators removed, cleaned, greased, then reinstalled and adjusted. · New Hella fog lamp retrofit – 2009 – A significant upgrade, compared to factory fog lamps with plastic rear housings. The 1999-2000 Miata has issues with melted fog-lamp housings, due to design. The upgrade utilizes Hella p.n. 008191051 90mm high beams and with H9 bulbs and factory-style weatherpack connectors. Necessarily, these lamps provide excellent night-time visibility. – Lenses have X-Pel protective film on them. In all, I’m sure you agree that this is not a typical 192k mile car. This is going to make someone a nice, reliable ride. Whether you’re looking for something to drive or something to improve upon, this car is nice where it counts. Maybe you’re looking for a good platform to engine-swap. Either way, it’s not been cut on or monkeyed around. Thanks for looking. – Email questions. I am willing to work with seller, to facilitate shipment at buyer’s expense, if needed. Buyer to make NON-REFUNDABLE PayPal deposit of $500, within 1 (ONE) day of auction close, with balance to be paid in cash or certified cashier’s check, within 3 (THREE) days of auction close. NO EXCEPTIONS. Normal 0 false false false EN-US X-NONE X-NONE