Detail Info for: Mitsubishi : 3000GT VR4 Twin Turbo AWD 1992 Mitsubishi 3000GT VR-4 3.0L Twin Turbo AWD ***REBUILT MOTOR / TRANS***

Transaction Info
Sold On:
02/23/2013
Price:
$ 3844.00
Condition:
Mileage:
169181
Location:
Mesa, Arizona, 85206
Seller Type:
Private Seller
Vehicle Specification
Year Make Model:
1992 Mitsubishi 3000GT
Submodel Body Type:
VR4 Twin Turbo AWD Coupe
Engine:
3.0L 2972CC 181Cu. In. V6 GAS DOHC Turbocharged
Transmission:
Manual
VIN:
JA3XE74C4NY030848
Vehicle Title:
Clear
Drive Train:
Fuel Type:
GAS
Standard Equipment:
Optional Equipment:
Vehicle Detail
It's time to sell my baby. I've run into some financial issues and have to sell asap. It's going to need a clutch job. It will run great for a while until the clutch decides to not disengage. I have to reach in past the front drivers side wheel, through the bolt access hole, rotate the motor maually by turning the crankshaft with a 22mm socket a couple rotations to free the clutch up and I works again. I've taken it to the dealership for a diagnostic and they say it's the throwout bearing going out which is always replaced during a clutch replacement and visa versa. I simply cannot afford any more repairs. About 2 months ago, I had to replace the alternator and at the same time replaced the timing belt, tensioner, alternator belt, power steering belt, water pump, and battery. The motor and transmission were rebuilt in 2009, about 20,000 miles ago. alot of other things were replaced then as well and I have alot of records of the repairs. I don't race it and I've always maintained it well, Mobile 1 synthetic every 3000 miles of course. It passed Arizona emissions about a month ago. The wheels / tires are wider than stock it seams. The exhaust has been upgraded to 3" catback, nice deep exhaust sound, but the active exhaust is disconnected for it. The struts were aftermarket when I got the car and the ecs wasn't operational. I replaced those struts with used oem ones.The rear wheel steering still works though. The brakes have been upgraded to the "Mitsubishi Big Brake Kit". The CD player is aftermarket with an amp in the back and a custom box behind the rear seat with two 8in(I think, haven't measured) woofers to save room. The A/C started blowing warm at the end of last summer. The speedometer starts working at about 45mph and above, but doesn't show anything below that. The paint was oxidized on the top surfaces so the previous owner painted over it and didn't do a good job, needless to say, it needs paint. There are some dents on the side panels from doors hitting it in the apartment complex but no accidents or frame damage of any kind. The body lines are straight and the side panels have original paint. When the clutch is working correctly, this thing runs awesome, lots of power, awesome handling, and smooth shifting. This car is a classic now and I'm going to miss it. Also, I'm including a Valor 7" LCD in dash folding screen DVD / CD player (not installed), slightly used in a different vehicle, like new, with remote. Also a new Hallman boost controller (never intstalled), and a new Covercraft bra (not installed). Good Luck. On Feb-21-13 at 00:05:03 PST, seller added the following information: The interior pics came out dark and I used the best one but I realize you can't see much. I cannot update the pics on the auction anymore. If you would like more pictures just message me and I'll send some through e-bay's messaging system. It has black seat covers (not that great of quality), and theres only a very small tear on the drivers seat about 1/8 of an inch in size and the ashtray lid is broken.On Feb-21-13 at 20:22:48 PST, seller added the following information: I've been getting alot of people asking me if I think that it will make it across the U.S. in the condition that it's in right now. The clutch can really be an issue at times... it comes and goes. I've always made it home when the clutch got real bad but I had to work for it. It's been getting worse and the last time I drove it I got stuck at a red light. I had to push the car to the side of the road and break out the 1/2 ratchet and 22mm socket. I rotated the motor a couple times by hand and the clutch pedal was no longer firm and the car got me home. On the freeway, I have no issues with it, runs awesome. It's just the stops you have to worry about. On the other hand... it could get better while driving after a little bit like it has in the past and all of a sudden work perfectly for weeks or months, but it's still a risk and I cannot guarantee anything. I'm confident that I would be able to take it across the U.S., but I know what to do to get it going if needed. I can show you what I do to free the clutch up if you don't know how, but it's still risky. The fact is... it needs a throwout bearing. If you plan to drive it to your state, I would suggest being prepared for the worst and at least having AAA or something just in case. Thank you and good luck!