1968 Oldsmobile Cutlass

Automatic

336678m343251

This can be driven home; any distance. Worth somewhere between $9k & $15k with a 455ci motor. Center console shifter with buckets. Tight/proper shifting tranny action. New lettered profile tires; excellent rims and beauty rings. The body: An over-all "driver" quality paint job. Looks like the hood and top of the front fenders was touched up due to maybe, fading? More paint runs in these areas. Doors close tightly and allignment is good; no drop or hinge looseness. All the windows roll nicely and the wing windows crank fully. Door sills, bottom of doors, rockers, floors, and quarters are rust free for an old car of this age. The trunk floor is excellent for this year except for a few small holes (see picture). There is one small hole on the driver's door (about 1/2 inch; see picture). Hardly any rust in the wheel wells splash areas, in fronts or backs of tires. The hood opens and closes normally but does need adjustment to the hinges to flush the back corners at closed position. Interior: really nice; mostly unblemished accept for passenger door panel needs a little glue. Clean crack free dash. There are no seat seam seperations. Bumpers: nice, presentable, with a little pitting here and there. The rear is a "442" dual exhaust recesses. Lights: all work except for left hand directional dash indicator. The outside directionals themselves work. Gauges work. Additional oil pressure and temperature gauges are mounted under steering column. After market A/C does blow some cold air and has a "period" engine compartment compressor. The stereo/radio works. Engine: starts easy and runs great. Doesn't run hot. No oil smoke or cold start smoke. Nice sound with fairly new stainless dual exhaust. Top: power top works great with no hesitation. Clamps easy,evenly, and tight. The top canvas itself is very water tight and "driver" functional, but does have mild edge threading loose areas (see picture). The glass rear window is a plus in value and quality. I did not snap down all the "boot" snaps for pictures, so it does fit snugger and it is like new. Any questions please ask. As is sale; may sell locally. Many more pictures available. I also took walk around video with engine running and top going up. Any deposit is non-refundable. See item#300698104882 (sold for $12975). It had accident damage to left rear corner; tail-light crooked, trunk lid not close fully on that corner. Wasn't mentioned in listing. I did confirm it had a banger that area. Still sold for the above amount. Tire burn'n video sold it. My car well worth $12k. Also, 68 hardtop on Atlanta Craigslist @ $12,500(doesn't look great condition. Also, a 68 conv in Marrietta, Ga. for $21,000. Go for it! I just posted this to Oodle & Marketplace. I recommend : Bears Transport PH: 866-858-8066 On May-06-12 at 05:38:23 PDT, seller added the following information: There is only one ways to OWN this car , or other like it, PAY the price. It serves no purpose to be almost a buyer. There will be NO SECOND CHANCE OFFER. Reserve price met, or buy it now price click will have you driving quick, no other way/price/dream will work. There or some lesser priced ones out there. Those examples maybe have holes in floors or bad rockers (hard/expensive task to get done correctly, and usually never get it done) ; have typical grandma bench seat and column shift or need the entire dash and seats re-covered; might havesmall block motor; and need the same things all non-restored models above the other issues. Step up to the plate, get the RED "no accident" "muscle " one here! Snooze u lose. On May-08-12 at 03:31:41 PDT, seller added the following information: Sorry kids, I've decided this will not sell under $10,000. I get on this sell mode mentality with a time to sell window, when in reality, I don't need the money to pay bills, pay for vacations, or other. My advantage that just has to stay up front in my judgement of what I will sell for. That being stated, you only own (rather than me) if you hit the home run purchase price decision. I, in the mean time, am going to drive this baby. On May-09-12 at 13:45:23 PDT, seller added the following information: INTERNET SEARCH 455CI engineApplications Oldsmobile built its 455 engine from 1968 until 1976. The company placed it in most of its vehicles, including the Cutlass, the 442, the Delta 88, the 98 and the Toronado. It could produce between 210 and 400 horsepower, depending on engine options.Casting Numbers The numbers cast on the lower left corner of the engine block -- or on the cylinder head -- indicate the year the engine was manufactured. The casting numbers for a 455 include 395021F, 396021Fa and 231788L.Carburetor Numbers The engine's carburetor was also stamped on the driver's side. This number indicates the specific requirements of that carburetor. Because of emissions regulations enacted by the federal government in the early 1970s, the carburetor numbers changed. All models manufactured before 1973 featured the same carburetor numbers, making them easily identifiable.Other Identifying Specifications From 1968 until 1969 these engines -- with the exception of the engine placed in the Oldsmobile Toronado -- were painted red. Those engines built from 1970 until 1976 were painted blue. Before 1974, the air cleaner's identification decal bore the name "Rocket," identifying the engine as a Rocket 455. The bore on this engine was 4.126 inches, and the stroke was 4.25 inches. Read more: 455 Oldsmobile Engine Identification | eHow.com http://www.ehow.com/facts_7726283_455-oldsmobile-engine-identification.html#ixzz1uPJKbFopOn May-09-12 at 13:58:34 PDT, seller added the following information: In the year 1964, Oldsmobile came out with a new small block (330 CID), and the next year a big block (400 and 425 CID). Over the years other displacements were added. The Olds 455 was a 1968 introduction, developed from the Olds 425 introduced in 1965, which was a tall-deck version of the 330 engine design introduced the previous year, both of which replaced the 394ci V-8, which was a development of the design introduced as the 1949 303ci "Rocket" V-8. Production of big blocks ceased in 1976, although some were used, not necessarily in cars, in the 1977 model year. Production of small blocks ceased in 1990. The big and small block engine types are almost identical, with the big block having a higher deck than the small block. The bore centers are the same, since the only differences between the small-block and big-block Olds blocks are the deck height (9.33" and 10.625", respectively) and the main journal size (2.5" and 3.0"; diesel 350 used BB size mains, however). Many internal parts interchange, but it is best to keep the big block parts on the big block and the same for the small block. The engines were sometimes named, and this was printed on the air cleaner label or sticker. Mid 60's 425s were known as Super Rockets. Some featured Ultra High Compression on their labels. Quick Identification The large oil fill tube on the front of the engine, sticking up from the timing chain area, is a dead giveaway that it is an Olds engine. The distributor is found at the back of the block and it does not go through the intake manifold, but right into the block. Also the spark plugs will be above the exhaust manifolds with no need for heat shields. The Block Code and/or Head Code can give you an idea, but some codes cover many years. The casting number is ususally nearby. Other than that, there is no method of determining the year of manufacture of an Olds block. The valve covers are a distinctive shape. Straight running front to rear, with an arc connecting each end of the two lines, to define front and rear. From their sealing surface, the covers are curved as they meet their top. The top of the covers are flat, like someone cut off the curved top. The thermostat cover/radiator hose has a special molded in bypass pipe for the waterpump. The day of the year of manufacture is the big number right by the distributor hole. Original paint color can help identify an engine, or further identify it. However, since paint is easily changed, it should be used as supporting evidence, not as absolute indication of engine lineage. The VIN derivative stamping or engine unit number is on the left most side of the block or head, on the driver's side, just below the cylinder head, toward the front. The pad is part of the engine and will indicate the year of manufacture, but that is usually rusted beyond recognition, and it can be changed by restamping. Basically it IDs the car in which the motor was originally installed. It can provide some circumstantial info but not a positive ID. The VIN derivative on 68-up blocks doesn't tie directly to the type of car it was installed in (unless you have some way to unambiguously trace the last six digits of the VIN), however it can provide some indirect evidence. For example, if the production plant (third place in the VIN derivative) was one at which no 442s were built (KC, for example), then it obviously isn't a 442 motor. Of couse, you have no way of knowing for sure that the heads were originally installed on that block or not. For example, what this proves is that it could be a W-30 short block, but it could also be a Toro motor. W-30s were only built in Lansing, so if the VIN derivative had shown some other production plant, you would have positive proof that it was not a W-motor. Of course, if the motor is still in the car and the car is positively a W-30 and the last six digits of the VIN match, then it is a W-motor. If the engine was replaced under warranty, the pad may be blank. Rubbing alcohol and Q-tips help to remove the grime and grit from the stamping.