1980 Other Makes Rover

3500 SD1 Hatchback

8 - Cyl.

Manual

RRVWV8AA146383

Gasoline

This may be the last Rover 3500 (SD1) in daily service here in the States...one of the few left, in any case. I bought the car last fall and have driven it about 2,500 miles since then. (It has been my primary car since its purchase.) Why am I selling? I have a full garage and a restoration project due back from the painter in a month--and the promise of nicer weather invites the use of my convertibles/bikes for daily errands. Note that digital photos flatter--while the car is in nice shape, it is a long way from pristine. OVERALL CONDITION This Rover is in decent overall condition. I have run the car without issue on a daily basis. It was converted from fuel injection to a Carter AFB 4-barrel by the previous owner, and is none-the-worse for that. The air conditioning equipment has also disappeared. Nearly everything works...note that aside from making sure the car has fluids in it and stopping for gas, I haven't done much to the car due to the press of work and my wife's to-do list at our new-to-us home. I get a very steady 21MPG around town. The tank will yield just under 300 miles of range. BODY The car does not seem to have any structural rust at all. I have had the car on a lift, and the floors and sills are intact. There are some bubbles around the body, namely at the bottom of one door, at the front of the passenger front wheel arch, and at the center of the scuttle just below the windscreen. The car does not seem to have been in any accidents. It is in the original color but has been repainted at least once. The rub strips that you see on the side are not original and removing them would improve the looks considerably, but they are not the "stick on" type and would logically come off at the next paint job, if it has one. Note that the paint is serviceable but with a number of chips around and about. Someone also wasn't very good with a buffer at some point, as some of the sharp edges of the bodywork show "burn through". The photos are recent, but the car does flatter in photos. Then again, it's white, and most people who see it consider it to be "nice." If you're fussy you're going to repaint it at some point, but it's not an embarrassment until that happens. The rubber sealing strips on the side windows are the only seals on the car which shows any real signs of wear. The car doesn't seem to leak water into the interior, but I've garaged it during my ownership. The bonnet struts are slightly too long. The previous owner was quite proud of sourcing these inexpensive replacements, but they seem to make the front of the bonnet sit proud a smidgen. ENGINE & TRANSMISSION The previous owner claims to have rebuilt the engine just before I bought the car. He had photos of a flattened exhaust cam which precipitated the rebuild; however, I have no paperwork for what might have been done. The car runs well with good power and no lifter or other mechanical noise, so I have no real reason to doubt his word, but, again, there is no proof. Note the engine leaks oil in decent quantities. I believe this may be down to an inlet manifold gasket which isn't sealing well, but have not had the time to investigate. My garage floor is already a superfund site, so this isn't a high priority for me. The car has the rare 5-speed and it works well. The clutch has good bite and doesn't slip. It shifts well without any grinding. Note that someone left off the rear silencer (probably after asking how much they cost). It is not loud, but the pipe really should be taken out the back even if with just a length of straight pipe, right now the exhaust ends just past the rear axle. OTHER MECHANICAL The suspension and brakes work well. The car has newish tires on the original mag wheels. The handbrake is marginal on steep grades. ELECTRICAL As noted above, the fuel injection was replaced, so the car no longer has an engine computer or other related FI components. Everything electrical works, including the clock, though it keeps lousy time. The rear-window lift lock-out switch is slightly wonky, in that you have to keep it pressed in to operate the rear windows; that said, all the windows work. The rear defroster works but I think only three of the "bars" are active. The central locking works--but if the hatch is supposed to be on the circuit that needs attention (it opens with the key). The gauges all work. When the original Motorola alternator died (impossible to source), I replaced it with a rebuilt 80-amp Lucas unit for a late-1980s Range Rover--it works well and bolted right in (makes sense, same engine and mounting position). The battery is also new. Note that there is a battery light on the dash in addition to the voltage gauge. This tell-tale glows dimly all the time. If you put a meter on the battery you can see the system is charging (14.2 at idle, lights on). It glowed before the Motorola died, it glowed when the Motorola died, it glowed when the Lucas alternator was installed, and it glowed when I put a new battery in. (It only glows with the key on, obviously.) I suspect it will still be glowing in 20 years, assuming the car survives. Do not question the Prince. The headlamps were swapped prior to my ownership to the European lenses, which improves the look a lot. All lights work, inside and outside, except the reverse lights. The wipers work but I cannot testify to the windscreen washer. INTERIOR The interior is in good condition. The driver's door card is a bit loose and should be attended to. The dash has a crack in it, I guess they typically do this. (I have a replacement dash which also has a crack in it.) There is a recent Aiwa CD-Player and speakers in the rear; I think there should be speakers in the front doors but they either don't work or aren't there. I don't listen to a stereo when I drive so haven't cared to look. The interior console lights work off of fiber optics and glow extremely dimly in the visible spectrum. The headliner is good and not drooping. SPARES I have a couple of cartons of spares, nothing insanely useful, gauges, a spare dashboard, a few other items. No original FI stuff and no original A/C stuff, sorry. ISSUES If I was to keep the car, I would address the following: Finish the rear part of the exhaust system. I'd put a straight pipe out the back, but the original muffler hangers are there if that's your preference. The lack hasn't kept me from using the car. That said, my tolerance for occasional fumes from years of driving old crocks may be greater than yours. Figure out where the engine is leaking oil and reseal it. That's it, really. There are plenty of details to chase if that's your thing, but it's a good usable car as is. CONCLUSION Keep using it as a daily driver as I have, or lever the overall solid condition as the basis of an "easy" restoration. Personally, I'd keep it on the road, but a paint job to freshen it and especially to get rid of the rub strips would be very tempting indeed. AS IS, WHERE IS If I have neglected to mention any faults here it's not through malice--the copy above is meant as informational and is accurate to the best of my ability, but I cannot guarantee the condition of any specific component or that my idea of "works well" is the same as yours. Note that I like quirky old cars and have a high tolerance for mischief (most days, anyway!). If you're looking for a modern Camry or Accord disguised as a 31-year-old Rover, I suggest this isn't the car for you. Please ask any questions before bidding. I welcome potential buyers to view the car, but cannot arrange a professional inspection nor would I really welcome one; they will have no idea about an old Rover and I feel it would be a waste of your money and my time. If you insist, fine, but I warned you. PICKUP AND TRANSPORT The car is north of Seattle, Washington. You could probably drive it home (certainly if you live within a few hundred miles, and it would probably make it across the country just fine, no promises) but transport will be your own gig. I have a clear Washington State title for the car. I expect the car to be picked up within a couple of weeks, give or take a bit of fudge time for a transporter to make it here. PAYMENT A deposit of $300 must be made within three days of auction close, and payment must be completed within a week. I am willing to work with escrow.com if it makes you more comfortable, however the escrow fee will be paid by you. I've never bought or sold a car via eBay; it might be that the buyer protection they have here is sufficient, but you'll need to determine that for yourself. I prefer paypal for the deposit and either cash, wire or a check for the balance; if paying by check, the check will have to clear before I can release the car. ONLY BID IF YOU'RE SERIOUS I hate to feel a need to mention this,but please only bid once you have ascertained this is the car you want at the amount you're bidding. If you have less than 5 feedback, or a problematic feedback rating, please drop me a line before bidding or I may cancel your bid.