1971 Volkswagen Bus/Vanagon

Westfalia Minivan/Van

4 - Cyl.

Manual

2312156592

Gasoline

1971 Volkswagen Westfalia This Westy has a killer 1600 motor rebuilt by an engineer as a ha-ha. Some ridiculous final tally of like 5000 bucks. Weber dual carbs, bored out, removable oil filter......blahdy-blah. It has the rebuild receipts! The body, as seen in the pics, leaves much to be desired. Soft in all-the-usual-places underneath for a New England bus. I currently have the interior out and stored in my house in a dry place so I can tackle the welding issues if this doesn't sell. The floor won't be included as the wood was bad. Going through the receipts when I bought it, this is the general shtick: -I got it with 223,000 on the odo and about 14k on the rebuild which was done in '00-'01. -I've put 11k on it. -Has 234,000 on it now. (25k on the rebuild) It runs like a champ. Here's what you'll be getting into: It's due for the valve adjustment and tune up. Right rear wheel cylinder is on it's way out. Needs an all around brake job: calipers/rotors, backing plates/shoes/hardware/wheel cylinders. Door locks are crap. Never had an ignition switch. Sink did not work when I got it. Canvas pop-top is sketchy. Luggage rack is held on by bungees. Heat is not hooked up. And a copious amount of body work/welding underneath. Hey.....worst case: keep the motor and scrap the body. Either way, the starting price is reflective of the scope of the project. NOTE: There is no title issued in CT for vehicles older than 20 years old. They don't keep them. They won't issue one. 20+ vehicles are sold with registration and bill of sale only. Yes. It will more than likely be a pain in the a** with your Motor Vehicle Geniuses. (What can I say? I live in CT in a town with an East Main St. and a West Main St. but no Main Street. Connecticut doesn't make sense.) You will be responsible for picking up or setting up pick-up of the bus. 200 buck deposit will be required within 24 hours of the auction end. Sold as-is. Thanks for looking! On Apr-28-11 at 12:28:00 PDT, seller added the following information: Vee Dub Q+A Time. I'm getting a lot of questions about the welding, sink issue, heat, and 'can you remember anything else important' kinda stuff.... Welding: The previous dude did the front floor boards and a hack job on the driver/passenger doorsteps. The rear of the driver and passenger front wheel wells need patching. The front crossmember that ends at each driver and pass wheel well and crosses underneath the seats is pretty sketchy. I have the single sheet metal replacement face for the crossmember. Rockers as seen in the pics. I have the sliding door apron/rocker replacement for underneath the door track. I do not have the driver side rocker replacement but they're readily available. Rear quarters have a lot of bondo. I also have one replacement quarter panel. Splash panels underneath spared the floor from a lot of salt. Splash panels could use TLC. Rear wheel wells, front surfaces, that would be under the bed and cabinet, they need patching where the well meets the floor. Battery trays are so-so. There are other misc spots underneath that need tiny patches. Sink: The sink didn't work when I got the bus. Faucet needs fixin; tank- a cleanout, the stack up to the pop-top was not there when I got the bus. Heat: The heat, when it was hooked up, was actually pretty darn good. The previous owner put newer heater boxes on. I'd taken the heat risers off to patch the exhaust headers on the two rear cylinders. They'd cracked at the curves.....I welded in flex pipe. I just never bothered putting the heat back in. All it did was defrost the window a litle bit. Reconnect the aluminum flex pipe between the doghouse and the heat exchangers, and reconnect up front underneath and you'll be defrosty in the winter. Misc: Hotwire ignition upgraded to rubberized alligator clips. The driver and passenger door locks work from the inside, but not outside. Slider door and back hatch key locks still work. Engine compartment is a non-locking latch. Upgraded tach is not hooked up at present but does work. Tape deck works! Yay! The bus does come with the front child's cot that clips in over the driver/passenger seat. Comes with the removable stool that sits between the dining seat and icebox. Also comes with the snap-in bug screen for the rear. Body-side snaps will need to be ordered. Louvered windows work. Previous owner only used the bus for dump runs which means she sat unused a lot....while dismantling for welding I found and removed some old mouse nests in the usual places: ceiling above driver/passenger seat, small ceiling pieces over the dining table and sink. The non-visible sides of those panels are stained accordingly. Lower face of bench seat with the fold-down door will need reattaching to bench seat frame. If there's anything else I will add it! Thanks for asking questions now!! On Apr-28-11 at 19:32:02 PDT, seller added the following information: More Answers to Questions..... How far can it be driven? : Even with all the issues, primarily brake issues, I still drive it all over the place. I'd drive from Hartford to Boston with it. How does it ride at 55? : Like any other VW bus: imagine hauling a 4 by 8 sheet of plywood home on a motorcycle. Other than natural VW-bus-aerodynamic-deficiencies, FINE. Will parking brake set? : It doesn't now, and from the receipt trail, it didn't over 10 years ago. Tire condition : I got a new set about 8,000 miles ago and they've been rotated properly. Plenty of life left. Receipt is in the pile. Is there a sleeper up top? : Yes. The fold out cot is up there and works fine. Wipers work on normal and high speeds. Washer pump was disconnected when I got it. Headlights work on low and high beam, but to get them back to low FROM high beam there's a little process to follow: turn lights off (obviously NOT recommended during night driving), move turn signal left to right and back to OFF, turn lights back on. Don't ask me what the h*** that's all about, because I don't know for the life of me. Turn signals all work. Brake lights work. They are intermittent right now because of the right rear wheel cylinder leaking. There's not enough maintained pressure to keep the brake light switch on the master cylinder ON. Speedo works. Odo works. Tach needs reconnecting out back. Proper remedy to the alligator clip ignition will bring the dash lights back on. It's dripping some oil from around the after market oil cooler and the right rear wheel cylinder is approaching the point of no return and leaking hard. Always happy to answer more questions!!